sed for carrying _chicha_. This is a
fermented drink, made from the sap of sugar-cane, and is much used
throughout this state and the adjoining parts of Central America. We
inquired of a girl who carried such a vessel, what she had, and asked
to try it. She gave us a sip in a wee gourd-vessel, holding less than a
wine-glass. Knowing nothing of the price of _chicha_, we gave her six
centavos, with which she seemed well satisfied. A little later, deciding
to test the drink again, we stopped a man, who had a vessel of it, and
again were given the little cup. On stating that we wished a centavo's
worth, we were much surprised to have him fill a great _jicara_ for
the price mentioned. It seems the little vessel is carried only for
sampling, and that a sale is made only after the purchaser has approved
the quality.

Reaching Cuaquitepec at five, we rode up to the town-house, that the
authorities might know that we had passed. The place is small and
dwindling; there are relatively many _ladinos_, and few indians. They
were expecting us, and seemed disappointed at our refusal to stop.
The shell of the old church, almost ready to fall, suggested past
magnificence. The little modern structure, at its side, is suited to the
present needs. We were vexed at the wanton sacrifice of a great
tree, which had stood near the town-house, but whose giant trunk was
prostrate, and stripped of its branches. A man on foot showed us the
road beyond the town, and it was moonlight before we reached Citala,
where we planned to sleep. Of the town itself, we know nothing. The old
church is decaying, but in its best days must have been magnificent. The
_presidente_ was absent, but his wife, an active, bustling intelligent
_ladino_, expected us, and did everything possible for our comfort.
Eggs, beans, _tortillas_ and coffee made up the supper. A room,
containing a bed for me, and _petates_ on the floor for my companions,
was waiting. When a light was struck more than a dozen great cockroaches
were seen running over the wall, none of them less than two inches and a
half in length, and of the most brilliant orange and dark brown. In the
morning, a fine chicken breakfast was promptly ready, and the woman had
summoned a _cargador_ to be ready for our starting. She said that in
this town there is a considerable indian population, and that these
Tzendals are tall and strongly-built, in comparison with those of
Cuaquitepec, and other neighboring towns. She r