It was not an abrupt descent, as we had expected, but for the
most part level, over black mud. There were a few ups and downs, and
there was one limestone hill with tree-ferns and begonias, and all that
that implies. Much of the way we had a drizzling rain, and everywhere
the air was hot and heavy. After four hours' riding, we stopped at ten
to eat a breakfast which we had brought with us, and then rode through
to El Salto, where we arrived at 12:30. This is the _cabecera_ of the
district, and the _jefe_ could not understand why we should continue on
our journey, as the steamer would not leave until the following day.
Don Enrique, however, had urged us not to stop at El Salto, where he
insisted the risk from yellow fever was great. He advised us to go on to
La Cruzada, where he had a house and an agent, and where, he told us,
we could arrange for sleeping and eating as comfortably, and far more
safely, than in the town. The distance was short, but the place, in
truth, was dreary. The landing was at the bottom of a little slope, at
the upper edge of which stood Don Enrique's place, the store-house of
the steamship company, the house and barnyard of the manager of the mule
trains, and one or two unattractive huts. When we arrived, we found that
the mayor domo had that day resigned, and left the place, going to El
Salto; before he left, he quarreled with the cook, and she had gone off
in high dudgeon. Two young employes, left behind, advised us to return
to El Salto until the time of embarkation. We, however, had left El
Salto behind us, and had our luggage with us, and were little inclined
to retrace our steps. After some grumbling, we were supplied with beds,
but told that the food problem was impossible. After much wheedling,
coaxing, bribing, and threatening, a woman in one of the huts promised
to cook something for us, and we had nothing more to do but wait, until
the steamer should be ready. The chief excitement of the day was when
the mule trains were driven in, towards evening. With them came a swarm
of mosquitoes, which absolutely darkened the air. Fortunately they did
not stay, but after an hour and a half of troubling, disappeared as
suddenly as they arrived. The river had fallen to that degree that it
was impossible for our steamer, the Mariscal, to come up to La Cruzada,
and we learned that it was anchored about a league down the river. A
flatboat, poled by indians, came up to the landing, ready to receive
carg