en feet in height, we reached San Sebastian, where we found our
_carretero_, whom we supposed to have reached San Cristobal the day
before. Rating him soundly, and threatening dire consequences from his
delay, we resumed our journey. We were also worried over our _mozo_,
who started from Chiapa at noon, the day before, with our photographic
instruments, and whom we had not seen since, although there were several
places where we would gladly have taken views. From here, for a long
distance, the road was a hard, steep climb, over limestone in great
variety--solid limestone, tufaceous stuff, concretionary coatings, satin
spar, and calcite crystals. Having passed a small pueblo, or large
_finca_, lying in a little plain below us, we looked down upon
Zinacantan. The descent was quickly made, and passing through the
village, without stopping, we made a long, slow, ascent before catching
sight of our destination, San Cristobal. It made a fine appearance,
lying on a little terrace at the base of hills, at the very end of the
valley. Its churches and public buildings are so situated as to make
the most impression; on account of its length and narrowness, the town
appears much larger than it really is. We entered at one end, and then,
practically, paralleled our trail through it to the centre, where we
stopped at the Hotel Progreso, at 3:30 in the afternoon. We went to the
palace, and made arrangements so promptly that we could have begun work
immediately, if the _carretero_ and _mozo_ had not been behind. As it
was, we waited until next day, and were warned by the _secretario_ at
the _jefatura_ that there would not be enough light for work before nine
o'clock. In the evening, we called on Padre Sanchez, well known for his
study of the native languages, and the works he had written regarding
them. He is a large man, well-built, of attractive appearance, and of
genial manner. He has been _cura_ in various indian towns among the
Chamulas, and he loves the indians, and is regarded as a friend by them.
We were prepared for a cold night, and had it, though no heavy frost
formed, as had done the night before. In one day's journey, the
traveller finds towns, in this neighborhood, with totally different
climates. Here woolen garments are necessary, and in towns like Chamula
and Cancuc the indians find the heaviest ones comfortable. Our rating of
the _carretero_ had an effect both prompt and dire; when we left him,
he hastened to hire carri