we should be supplied with every aid,
and went off happy, in the sense of a bad job well done. But out of the
two hundred soldiers in the barracks, just ten turned out to be Zoques
of pure blood. And long before the day was over, we were again clamoring
at the _jefe's_ house for thirty-six more subjects. To tell the truth,
we doubted his ability to secure them, and, in order to lose no time,
started our goods and plaster by _carreta_ for San Cristobal. Still,
while it was plain that he did not know where to look for help, the good
man assured us that we should have our thirty-six subjects the next
morning. Meantime, he sent officials with us to visit certain indian
houses which we desired to examine, and arranged that we should see a
certain characteristic indian dance at his house, at four o'clock that
afternoon.

Tuxtla Gutierrez is a capital city. It is also a busy commercial centre.
Of course, the population is for the most part _mestizo_, and not
indian. We had been surprised at finding so many indians in the city as
there were. We were yet more surprised to find to what extent the
houses of the city, though admirably built, were truly indian in style,
presenting many points of interest. The walls of the "god-house" were
heavy and substantial, smoothly daubed with mud, neatly plastered and
often adorned with colored decorations. The "cook-house," slighter and
less well-built, was made of poles daubed with mud, and rough with heavy
thatching. The granary was elevated above the ground, and sheltered with
its own neat thatching.

In the afternoon, at four o'clock, we betook ourselves to the _jefe's_
house to see the dance. At Tuxtla, there are two town governments,
that of the _mestizos_ and that of the indians. The indian
officials--"_alcaldes indios_"--are recognizable by their dress, which
is a survival of the ancient indian dress of the district. Their
_camisa_, broad hat, and leather breeches, are characteristic. Around
the head, under the hat, they wear a red cloth, and those who have
served as indian _alcaldes_ continue to wear this head-cloth after their
official service ends. These indian officials had been commissioned to
bring together the dancers, and make all necessary arrangements. The
colonel, the prisoners of state, and one or two other guests were
present. The leader of the dance was gaily dressed, in a pair of wide
drawers with lace about the legs below the knee, a pair of overdrawers
made of brig