ants rode. Even here, few of the
parties were really dashing, lively or beautiful. The whole thing was
constrained, artificial and sedate. An occasional group seemed to really
enjoy the occasion. One bony horse dragged an ancient buggy or cart,
which might well be that of some country doctor, and in it was the
gentleman himself, commonly dressed, but with a whole family of little
people, who were bubbling over with enjoyment. Another happy party was
that of a common carter, who had his own dray in the line, with his
children, neatly but commonly dressed, as its only occupants; in two or
three carriages were maskers, though none of them appeared funny;
one drayman's cart had been hired by a crowd of loud and boisterous
youngsters, who performed all kinds of pranks and bawled nonsensical
remarks to the crowd.

[Illustration: CARNIVAL AT PROGRESO]

[Illustration: CARNIVAL AT PROGRESO]

My chief errand was to see the leader of the _xtoles_, to purchase from
him some of the objects which they had used in their dance. Just as I
was starting, at evening, for the address he had given me, I met Senor
Fernandez in the plaza, and he agreed to accompany me to the place. We
went some little distance on the street-car, and, dismounting at the
corner of a narrow lane, were about to start through it, when someone
touched my companion on the arm, and greeted him. He recognized the
owner of the little shop before which we stood. Heartily invited to
enter the _tienda_, we did so and stated the object of our quest. The
shopkeeper at once said that we must have a lantern, as the road was
dark, and ordered his clerk to accompany us with one, for which we were
truly thankful. We came, finally, to the house where Don Gregorio,
the leader of the dancers, lived. Fernandez was friendly and voluble,
greeting every company of girls and women that we met, or who were at
the house, as "_lindas_," and passing compliments. He was, however,
uneasy, continually glancing around and asking repeatedly when Don
Gregorio would appear. The dancers were still absent, but expected
every moment; in fact, we could hear their music in the distance. When,
finally, they did appear, their leader, who was very drunk, insisted
that he could not treat in the matter until after the next day, which
would be the culmination of the carnival, and their chief day for
dancing. The instant that we received this answer, Fernandez seized
the lantern, which the clerk had left, a