ly found it incomprehensible. Mrs. Seler, in her book,
describes the trouble that they had in seeing this _mapa_, and the
interest which their examination of it aroused. Dr. Castle told us
that, several years ago, he accompanied a Mr. Werner and a priest to
Huilotepec to see the _mapa_, and, if possible, to secure a picture of
it. For a long time they were unable to secure a glimpse of the old
document, and it was only when the priest assured the indians that the
doctor was an American engineer, who had been commissioned to survey
the line in dispute between the village and the Juaves, that they were
allowed to see it. Before permission was then given, a general meeting
of the _principales_ was held, and none of the guests were permitted to
touch the document. Mr. Werner made an exposure, which he sent to the
States for development; it was lost or destroyed. It is thus possible
that ours is the only picture of it in existence.
We had been told that a coach went regularly from San Geronimo to Tuxtla
Gutierrez, making the journey in two days. This seemed too good to be
true, and no one at Tehuantepec knew anything of such an arrangement,
but we took the train the following morning for San Geronimo, hoping to
get off without delay. All that the traveller sees upon descending from
the train is the station, the place of Senor Espindola, and the little
Hotel Europa. To our surprise, we found that our baggage had not yet
come from Coatzacoalcos, although we had seen it loaded on the train
ourselves. Still worse, we were informed that frequently fifteen days
were consumed in transportation of freight from that point hither, and
that we had no right to expect it so promptly. Inquiry regarding the
coach revealed the fact that no such vehicle existed. Six hard days of
horseback riding would be necessary for the journey, and, though
Ramon admitted himself to be much better, he was too weak for such an
undertaking. This had had its influence in determining us to go by
coach in the first place. When in doubt as to what we should do, Senor
Espindola suggested that the journey could be made by ox-cart in ten or
eleven days. Though this seemed slow, it was better than to run risks
with our invalid, and we determined to journey in that fashion as soon
as our luggage should appear.
The station is situated on a somewhat elevated plain, constantly swept
by heavy winds. While we were there, this wind was hot, and loaded with
dust. In the
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