aggage-cart had a more serious time; the
team made several attempts to drag it up the slope, but failed, even
though our whole company, by pushing and bracing, encouraging and
howling, aided. There was a real element of danger in such help, the
slipping animals and the back-sliding cart constantly threatening to
fall upon the pushers. Finally, the cart was propped upon the slope, and
its own team removed; our team, which was heavier and stronger, was then
hitched on, but it was only with a hard tug, and with heavy pushing,
that success was gained, and the cart reached the summit of the slope.
We crossed a fine marsh of salt water, quite like the lagoon at San
Mateo del Mar, and were told that we were not far from the Juave town
of San Dionisio. From here, the country, was, for a distance, an open
plain. With the moonlight, the night was almost as bright as day; cold
winds swept sheets of sand and dust over us. At one o'clock, we happened
upon a cluster of six or eight carts, drawn up for rest, and the company
of travellers were warming themselves at little fires, or cooking a late
supper. We learned that this gypsy-like group was a _compania comica_,
a comic theatre troupe, who had been playing at Tuxtla, and were now on
their way to Juchitan. We never before realized that such travelling of
ox-carts as we were now experiencing was a regular matter, and that the
carter's trade is a real business. At two o'clock, we stopped to repack
our loads, but were shortly on the way again. After the sun rose, we
were in misery; the road was deep with dust, and we were grimy, hot, and
choking. When the cross that marks the beginning of the land belonging
to Ixhuatlan was pointed out, we were delighted, but it was still a long
ride before we crossed the little stream and rode into the village.

Ixhuatlan is like all the Zapotec towns of this district, but less
clean, on account of its lying in the midst of dust, instead of sand.
Our carts drew up in a little grove, a regular resting-place for carting
companies, where more than fifteen were already taking their daytime
rest. Having ordered breakfast, we hastened to the stream, where all
enjoyed a bath and cleansing. Coffee, bread, _tortillas_, eggs, and
brandied peaches, made a good impression, and we ordered our buxom young
Zapotec cook, who was a hustler, to have an equally good dinner ready at
2:30. We set this hour, believing that she would be late, but she was
more than prompt, an