f thick stalagmite. At some spots
hummocks of snow-white crystalline matter, with a reticulated surface,
had been deposited by dripping water. A few great masses of stalagmite
rose from the floor, and there were some columns of the same material.
On returning from the cavern, nothing would do but we must breakfast
with the _jefe_, which we did, in state, though at our usual
boarding-house.

[Illustration: FRESHLY-DIPPED CALABASHES, NEAR TEKAX]

[Illustration: THE COACH THAT CARRIED US TO THE STATION; TEKAX]

The three great industries about Tekax are sugar, hennequin, and liquor.
Father Juan insisted that we should visit one of the local distilleries,
of which there are fourteen in Tekax. Sugar, ground with water into a
thick syrup, is drawn off from the mill into great vats, where it is
permitted to ferment; it is then taken into the still, where it is
heated and vaporized, and the vapor carried up into high towers
for condensation. These three-storied, square, wooden towers, with
ventilator-shafts, are one of the characteristic features of the town.

Padre Juan insisted on supplying a coach for our leaving, in the
morning. This coach, like those at Merida, was an extremely small
affair, for a single horse. Under any circumstances it would scarcely
carry three persons, without luggage, besides the driver. When it is
remembered that our party, (consisting of four), the stout _padre_, four
satchels, measuring-rod, tin pan and blankets, made up the load, it can
be easily appreciated that the little coach was full. We rode slowly,
and the poor, creaking vehicle threatened to fall to pieces every
moment, but we reached the station safely. It was scarcely ten when we
arrived at Merida and took our old quarters at the Moromuzo. Our invalid
at once lay down, and neither threats nor bribes would move him; he
looked as if he suffered, but he insisted on doing so; going to the
nearest drug store we described his symptoms to the apothecary, who
assured us that the case could not be serious, and supplied a remedy
which was rapid and energetic in its action, though our sick man
insisted that he was not improved.

We were now but waiting for notice of a vessel sailing from Progreso for
Coatzacoalcos. Writing, errands, visits, filled up the time, but it was
dreary waiting. The muddy streets, the heavy, moist, fetid air, the
outrageous prices, the mosquitoes--all combined to make a disagreeable
experience. We worried through three