single one appeared. Then they came
in a body, accompanied by the full town force, and each with her husband
as a guard, to our quarters. They were dressed in their best calico,
muslin, silk and satin, with laces and artificial flowers, earrings,
necklaces, and with shoes the heels of which measured from thirty to
thirty-five millimeters. They were perfumed; their hair was heavily
oiled with odorous greases. Each shook hands with our whole party,
greeted us politely, and sat down on the long school-benches, waiting
for her turn for measurement. Notwithstanding this rather oppressively
lady-like mode of procedure, we were assured by old Guadelupe that our
errand and work in the town had caused much terror and doubt, the women
particularly feeling sure that it boded ill. It was said that they
recalled the fact that years ago certain of their old men predicted that
strangers would eventually come to the village, who would bewitch the
people and destroy the town. It was commonly believed that we were now
fulfilling this prediction.

The physical type of the Huaxtecs seems to be well marked. A peculiar
gray tint underlies the brown color of the skin. The head is short,
broad, and curiously compressed behind; the eyes are wide apart, and
frequently oblique; the mouth is large, with thick but not projecting
lips.

We had planned to leave about the middle of the afternoon, and at 3:50
the best animals we have ever had were ready for our use. A magnificent
horse, the special pride of the _alcalde_ himself, was put at my
disposal. When we came to settle for the animals, all payment was
refused, their use being the voluntary offering of the town officials.
The animals made nothing of the journey, and within an hour and a half
we had again reached Tamalin.

We found that Aztec town as disagreeable as ever. Solemn promises had
been made that various _danzas_ should be ready for us, and that there
should be no delay regarding animals. Of course, we found nothing doing.
The only satisfactory memory connected with the town is our cook,
Porfiria. She was a master hand, and with training, should make a
reputation and a fortune. A pure indian, we would rather eat at her
table than at that of any half-breed cook in all that section. She
always had quantities of food, and no two meals were alike. Unless we
expressly ordered something we had had before, it is doubtful whether
she would have repeated a single dish. Her _enchiladas_, season