g. Here, too,
we found that there were no Huaxtecs, the town being, so far as it was
indian, purely Aztec. We decided, therefore, to try Tancoco, returning,
if need be, to Gutierrez. Both Gutierrez and Tancoco were in the
district of Tuxpan. Fortunately, we still carried our last year's letter
from the governor of Vera Cruz to serve us with the local authorities,
as it would be most inconvenient to go to Tuxpan for orders. Seeing
that it was impossible to leave that day, I walked in the afternoon to
Tantima to visit the priest. Between the two towns rises a fine, high
rock hill. The ascent from Tamalin was in three slopes, with short
levels between; the crest was but a few yards wide; the descent to
Tantima was abrupt and short. From the summit we looked down upon the
pretty, level, enclosed valley occupied by a rather regular town, built
about a large plaza which, the day being a market day, was gay with
booths and people. I met almost the whole population of Tamalin on my
way over, as they returned from market. All the men were drunk; some
were so helpless that they sprawled upon the road, while others were
being helped by their more sober comrades. I reached the plaza just
thirty-seven minutes after leaving Tamalin, and at once telegraphed to
Ozuluama about the baggage. When I inquired for the priest's house, the
telegraph operator informed me that the _padre_ had told him all about
us and our errand and that he would accompany me to the _curato_.
Crossing the square, we found the _padre_ living in a comfortable place,
close by the great, pretentious, stone church. We were warmly welcomed,
and orders were at once given for coffee. The Aztec servant hastened to
bring some, piping hot, and was quite abashed at being sharply reproved
for offering it directly to me. No, indeed, a gentlemen so distinguished
was not to be thus served; the table was moved up before my chair, a
clean cloth spread, sweet cakes were sent for, a glass of fresh milk
placed, and then the coffee was set upon the table. Thus, in solitary
grandeur, I sat and ate and drank, while the priest and operator took
their cups of coffee in their hands. Though we had ordered horses for
the following morning, the baggage had not come, and we waited all the
day. Strolling around the village, we found it a pretty place, through
which ran a fine stream, separating the houses into groups or clusters.
It is a true Aztec town, and the houses are well-constructed. Seve