tom of a great gorge. The rock walls were bold and often sheer, and
the upper line of mountain horizon was graceful and varied. The cliffs
were mostly limestone, and presented remarkable examples of folding and
dislocation. The long roots of trees, following exposed rock surfaces
downward for yards, and twisting and bending to find lodgment in the
crevices, were curious. Great tufts of a plant with long, narrow,
light-green leaves hung down along vertical rock faces. In little
caverns, at the foot of cliffs, were damp spots filled with ferns and
broad-leaved caladiums, and brilliant clusters of begonias in bloom.
At several places, the water of springs or underground streams gushed
forth, in natural rock-basins, or from under projecting ledges. At one
spot, there was a dainty basin of limestone into which a pretty veil of
spring water fell gracefully. We crossed and recrossed the stream many
times. Everywhere we were within sound of the creaking sugar-mills, and
in sight of the ladling of boiled sap; everywhere we met _arrieros_
driving animals loaded with little loaves of native sugar; everywhere
the forest was broken with little patches of sugar-cane, growing on the
slopes. Here and there, we saw cables slung across the streams, for
passing cargoes at high water. At one place was a fine display of
basaltic columns, the position of which was horizontal, the flow having
come up as a sheet injected from below, and not as a surface out-flow,
where the jointage would have been vertical. Finally, leaving this
beautiful ravine, we made a rapid ascent, passing a little village
consisting almost wholly of a school, noisy with study, and a church,
with a separate square tower. Shortly after reaching the summit, and
dipping slightly, we found Tlacuilotepec. It is not a large town. At its
center _mestizo,_ it has charge of several indian villages. We had
been referred for information concerning surviving paganism to a Senor
Martinez. We were interested in finding that the _presidente_ of the
town was a brother of this gentleman, and that both were Protestants. We
were received with great cordiality, not only on account of our official
introduction, but also because we brought an unofficial introduction
from Protestant friends. Two charming beds were arranged in the little
meeting-place in Senor Martinez's own house, and two others, almost as
good, were secured for the others of the party, in the little _meson_
of the village. As we