ole, the road was good, but, here and there,
were patches where we traveled over sharp and jagged out-croppings of
rock, and near Huehuetla we were forced to make some stiff climbs up the
cliff sides. Flocks of parrots were numerous, especially toward evening.
The stream was a handsome one, with clear, deep water; we crossed
and recrossed many times. The foot-paths rarely crossed, being cut
sometimes, as a narrow trail, in the rock of the cliff. Noticeable were
numerous silvery lines of water falling over the cliff, several of which
must have been hundreds of feet in height; these little threads of water
were impregnated with lime, and deposited material in a sheet upon the
bank over which they flowed, so that trails of brown tufa marked their
location; the lower ends of these deposits expanded into fan-like masses
of tufa, over which the water trickled, dripped or fell. Where there was
not sufficient water to produce a stream and fall, but enough to keep
the tufa moist, the growth of ferns, and other delicate vegetation, was
brilliant and striking. We passed a number of coffee and sugar ranches
on the road. It was dark long before we reached Huehuetla, and had it
not been for the moonlight struggling through the clouds, we should have
had difficulty in traveling the last portion of the road. At 7:35 we
arrived, and went at once to the large and handsome house of Don Pablo
himself, where we were expected, and where an elaborate supper was being
made ready. The largest room in the house was put at our disposal and
good beds and cots, beautifully clean and carefully made, were ready.
Formerly, Don Pablo was the _presidente_ of the town. His successor was
at the house to meet us, within five minutes after our arrival, and took
supper with us. It is needless to say that in this town we met with no
delays in our work. To our surprise, we found a fellow countryman, a
civil engineer named Culin, from Philadelphia, who has done and is doing
much work for the pueblos of this region.
Huehuetla is a large town, occupying a long valley hemmed in between
mountains and bordering a stream. The streets are regular, and the view
from the hills about, looking down upon the well-built houses and the
intersecting streets, is very pretty. The houses have substantial walls
of stone and mud, and many of them are white-plastered outside; all have
a thick and heavy thatch. The _plaza_ lies before the house where
we stopped, and, to the right, t
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