he large church stands on a terrace
somewhat above the town. A large school building, finer than many of the
best in some large cities, was just being finished; its construction was
due to Don Pablo's influence, and it was soon to be occupied. Meantime,
the children were given instruction in the church, and at noon and
evening, when their lessons were closed, they marched in double file,
down the flight of steps in front of the church and across the _plaza_,
where they separated and made their way home. During the time that we
were working at this town, when the school children filed past, they
always removed their hats in the most respectful manner. While there are
many _mestizos_ in the town, it may truly be called an indian town, the
largest of those belonging to the Tepehuas. According to Orozco y Berra,
Tepehua is not related to any other language in Mexico. We have not
studied it sufficiently to be sure that he is right; it is, however,
certain that the language has been much affected by the Totonac, if it
is not related to it, and many words in the two languages are the same.
The people of this tribe have a great reputation, more or less deserved,
for cleanliness; probably it is comparative, contrasting with the
neighboring Otomis, rather than positive. However that may be, both men
and women are usually dressed in clean white clothing. The _enaguas_
of the women are plain white; their belts have a foundation of white
cotton, but raised designs of black wool are so thickly worked upon them
that the white is quite inconspicuous.

The _camisas_ and _quichiquemils_ are generally white, with a vertical
band of red, and with a few animal figures. Women wear many necklaces of
bright beads, and braid their hair into two braids, which end with tapes
of various colors,--brown, red, green, maroon, and black. These braids
are brought together over the head and knotted in place. We secured no
women for measure until we had practically completed the work with men,
when they came with a rush, the whole twenty-five at once, dressed in
their best clothing, and insisted that the work must be done inside
the schoolhouse, out of sight, instead of on the street, where we had
operated on the men. We had no opportunity to see any of the popular
_danzas_, in some of which, we were told, songs were sung in the Tepehua
language, but we did see examples of the little _teponastls_, or drums,
used on these occasions; they are made from a rou