manding of the
fair hostess, that the prime "tit-bit of every dish be put on his plate,
he must receive, (if not with pleasure or even content,) with the
liveliest expressions of thankfulness, whatever is presented to him; and
let him not forget to praise the cook (no matter whether he be pleased
with her performance or not), and the same shall be reckoned unto him
even as praise to the mistress."

"If he does not like his fare, he may console himself with the
reflection, that he need not expose his mouth to the like mortification
again. Mercy to the feelings of the mistress of the mansion, will forbid
his then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with it,
notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy. If he like it ever so
little, he will find occasion to congratulate himself on the advantage
his digestive organs will derive from his making a moderate dinner; and
consolation from contemplating the double relish he is creating for the
following meal, and anticipating the rare and delicious zest of (that
best sauce) good appetite, and an unrestrained indulgence of his
gourmandizing fancies at the chop-house he frequents."

The following extract from that rare book, GILES ROSE'S _School for the
Officers of the Mouth_, 16mo. 1684, shows that the art of carving was a
much more elaborate affair formerly than it is at present.

LE GRAND ESCUVER TRANCHANT, _or the Great Master Carver_. "The exercise
of a master carver is more noble and commendable, it may be, than every
one will imagine; for suppose that life to be the foundation of all that
is done in the world, this life is not to be sustained without
maintaining our natural heat by eating and drinking."

Never trust a cook teaser with the important office of carver, or place
him within reach of any principal dish. I shall never forget the
following exhibition of a selfish spoiled child: the first dish that
Master Johnny mangled, was three mackerel; he cut off the upper side of
each fish: next came a couple of fowls; in taking off the wings of
which the young gentleman so hideously hacked and miserably mangled
every other part, that when they were brought for luncheon the following
day, they appeared as if just removed from a conclave of dainty cats,
rather than having been carved by a rational creature. When the master
of the family, who was extremely near-sighted, sat down to his nooning,
in expectation of enjoying the agreeable amusement of having a

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