your joints, that a lady's dainty lapdog would
hardly get a meal from them afterward; but which, if managed by the
considerative hands of an old housekeeper, would furnish a decent dinner
for a large family.
The man of manners picks not the best, but rather takes the worst out of
the dish, and gets of every thing (unless it be forced upon him) always
the most indifferent fare by this civility, the best remains for others;
which being a compliment to all that are present, every body will be
pleased with it; the more they love themselves, the more they are forced
to approve of his behaviour, and gratitude stepping in, they are
obliged, almost whether they will or not, to think favourably of him.
After this manner it is that the well-bred man insinuates himself in the
esteem of all the companies he comes in; and if he gets nothing else by
it, the pleasure he receives in reflecting on the applause which he
knows is secretly given him, is to a proud man more than equivalent for
his former self-denial, and overpays self-love, with interest, the loss
it sustained in his complaisance to others.
If there are seven or eight apples, or peaches, among people of
ceremony, that are pretty nearly equal, he who is prevailed on to choose
first, will take that which, if there be any considerable difference, a
child would know to be the worst.
This he does to insinuate, that he looks upon those he is with to be of
superior merit; and that there is not one whom he does not love better
than himself. Custom and general practice make this modish deceit
familiar to us, without being shocked at the absurdity of it.
"If people had been used to speak from the sincerity of their hearts,
and act according to the natural sentiments they felt within, till they
were three or four and forty, it would be impossible for them to assist
at this comedy of manners without either loud laughter or indigestion;
and yet it is certain, that such a behaviour makes us more tolerable to
one another, than we could be otherwise."
The master or mistress of the table should appear to continue eating as
long as any of the company; and should, accordingly, help themselves in
a way that will enable them to give this specimen of good manners
without being particularly observed.
"It belongs to the master and mistress, and to no one else, to desire
their guests to eat, and, indeed, carving belongs to nobody but the
master and mistress, and those whom they think
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