garment (which resembles the
Doric [Greek: peplos], but seems to have been rectangular rather than
square) is folded over at the top, and the central part is drawn up
towards the right shoulder to produce an elaborate system of zigzag
folds (GREEK ART, fig. 22). The borders of the garment are painted with
geometrical patterns in vivid colours; a broad stripe of ornament runs
down the centre of the skirt.[24]

This fashion of dress was only temporary. Thucydides (i. 6) tells us
that in his own time the linen chiton of Ionia had again been discarded
in favour of the Doric dress, and the monuments show that after the
Persian wars a reaction against Orientalism showed itself in a return to
simpler fashions. The long linen chiton, which had been worn by men as
well as women, was now only retained by the male sex on religious and
festival occasions; a short chiton was, however, worn at work or in
active exercise (GREEK ART, fig. 3) and often fastened on the left
shoulder only, when it was called [Greek: chiton heteromaschalos] or
[Greek: exomis]. But the garment usually worn by men of mature age was
the [Greek: himation], which was (like the [Greek: peplos]) a plain
square of woollen stuff. One corner of this was pulled over the left
shoulder from the back and tucked in under the left arm; the rest of the
garment was brought round the right side of the body and either carried
under the right shoulder, across the chest and over the left shoulder,
if it was desired that the right arm should be free, or wrapped round
the right arm as well as the body, leaving the right hand in a fold like
a sling (GREEK ART, fig. 2). The [Greek: himation] was also worn by
women over the linen chiton, and draped in a great variety of ways,
which may be illustrated by the terra-cotta figurines from Tanagra
(4th-3rd cent. B.C.) and the numerous types of female statues, largely
represented by copies of Roman date, made to serve as grave-monuments.
The upper part of the [Greek: himation] was often drawn over the head as
in the example here shown (Plate, fig. 21), a statue formerly in the
duke of Sutherland's collection at Trentham and now in the British
Museum.

A lighter garment was the [Greek: chlamys], chlamys, a mantle worn by
young men, usually over a short chiton girt at the waist, and fastened
on the right shoulder (cf. the figure of Hermes in GREEK ART, fig. 2).
The [Greek: chlaina] was a heavy woollen cloak worn in cold weather.
Peasants w