, FLORENCE). ]

[Illustration: _Photo, Anderson._

FIG. 23.--BUST OF PHILIP THE ARABIAN (VATICAN).]

[Illustration: _Photo, Moscioni._

FIG. 24.--TITUS (VATICAN).]

The Normans.

The Norman Conquest is marked by no great change in English clothing,
the conquerors inclining towards the island fashions, as we may see by
the fact that they gave up their curious habit of shaving the back of
the head. But with the reign of the second William came the taste for
the luxury of clothing and that taste for flowing hair and shoes with
sharp points which is lamented by William of Malmesbury. In this reign
we have the story of the Red King refusing to put on boots that cost but
three shillings--the price of an ox--and wearing the same gladly when
his chamberlain told him that they were a new pair worth a mark. Even
more than the fashion of long cloaks and trailing gowns whose sleeves
hang far below the hands, the fantastic boot and shoe toes bring the
curses of the clergy and the moralizings of chroniclers. Fulk Rechin of
Anjou is said by Orderic to have invented such gear to hide the
monstrous bunions upon his toes, but a worthless Robert, a hanger-on of
the court of William II., distinguishes himself and gains the surname of
Cornard by stuffing his shoe tips with tow and twisting them like the
horns of the ram.

12th and 13th centuries.

There are many illuminations which give us in plenty the details of all
costumes of the 12th century. Thus the devil in a well-known MS. wears
the gown of a lady of rank, the bodice tightly laced, the hanging sleeve
knotted to keep it out of the mud. A MS. at Corpus Christi College,
Oxford, shows in a picture of the vision of Henry I. that the men who
reap and dig are simply clad in loose skirted tunics with close sleeves,
that they have hats with brims, and cloaks caught by a brooch at the
shoulder. Hats and caps are common in all classes and take many
shapes--the Phrygian cap, the flat bonnet, the brimmed hat and the
skull-cap.

[Illustration: FIG. 27.--A Lady and a King (temp. Hen. III.). (From
Cotton MS. Nero, D. i.)]

With the coming of the house of Anjou English dress clears itself of the
more fantastic features of an earlier generation. Henry II. brought in
the short Angevin mantle and from it had his name of Curtmantle, but it
was not a mastering fashion and the long cloak holds its own. Rich
stuffs, cloth of gold or silk woven with gold, webs of damask wrought
with s