s reign. The tight
doublet has stiff wings at the shoulders, close sleeves and short skirt.
The many fashions of breeches are still popular, most of them padded or
stuffed. There are trunk hose that have the air of petticoats rolled
inward half way up the thigh. There is the "great round abominable
breech," pegtop shaped from below the knee to waist, as it appears in
the well-known print of James himself with hawk on fist. Among women of
fashion obtained a remarkable mode of exposing the breast, when the ruff
and bodice were cut away; and the wheel fardingale was still worn, an
order against it in 1613 rather increasing than diminishing its size.
But simpler fashions were setting in, and with the reign of Charles I.
the extravagances of padding and slashing disappear. The ruff gives
place at last to the falling band, a wide collar of lace or plain linen.
The belt or girdle ceases to be common wear, save for those who hang a
sword from it. Parties in the state come to be known by their dress, and
we have the Puritan, his crop head covered by a wide-brimmed,
high-crowned felt, without hatband or feather, and his plain falling
band over a staidly-cut coat. Beside him we set the cavalier, lace at
his band edge, wrist and wide boot tops. His hat is feathered, his
doublet lets the fine cambric of the shirt be seen at the waist, his
short breeches are fringed with points or tags. His long hair has one
lock brought over the left shoulder to be marked as a lovelock by a
ribbon at the end. But the clothing of this age has been illustrated by
Van Dyck and by a hundred other portrait painters, who as illustrators
of costume take the place of the monumental sculptors, then less
commonly called on for an effigy in the habit of life. And the time of
the Commonwealth passes without notable change. Those who were in power
favoured a sober habit, although we find General Harrison in scarlet and
clinquant matching with Colonel Hutchinson in courtly apparel, and
before the Restoration the tract-writers find matter of condemnation,
especially in the items of patches, hair-powder and face paints.

[Illustration: FIG. 39.--An English Lady. From a brass of 1605.]

[Illustration: FIG. 40.--An English Lady of rank in 1643. After Hollar.]

[Illustration: FIG. 41.--The English Countrywoman of 1643. After
Hollar.]

So far as the court was concerned, King Charles II. brought in the
extravagant fashions of the courtiers of Louis XIV. The short-wai