an to take a high
collar and the beginnings of the lappel. Its cuffs were of the modern
shape, showing a narrow ruffle. The waistcoat ended at the waist. Loose
neck-cloths were worn above a frilled shirt-front. Great jack-boots were
given to postillions, and men of fashion walked the streets in short
top-boots of soft black leather. Most remarkable of the revolutionary
changes, the round hat came back, sometimes in a form which recalled the
earlier 17th century, and at last took shape as the predecessor of our
modern silk hat. Court dresses kept something of their magnificence, but
men at home or in the streets were giving up in this time of change
their ancient right to wear rich and figured stuffs. Laces and
embroideries were henceforward but for military and civil uniforms.

Before 1790 women had begun to dismantle their high headgear, returning
to nature by way of a frizzled bush, like a bishop's wig, with a few
curls hanging over the shoulders. Over such heads would be seen towering
mob-caps tied with ribbon and edged deeply with lace. Skirts took a
moderate size and even court hoops were but panniers hung on either side
of the hips. Short jackets with close half-sleeves were worn with the
neck and breast covered with a cambric _buffant_ that borrowed a mode
from the pouter pigeon. A riding habit follows as far as the short waist
the new fashions for men's coats, the wide-brimmed hat being to match.
Short waists came in soon after 1790, the bodice ending under the arm
pits, "a petticoat tied round the neck: the arms put through the
pocket-holes." With these French gowns came small coal-scuttle-shaped
bonnets of straw, hung with many ribbons and decorated with feathers. At
last the woman of fashion, dressed by a Parisian modiste after the
orders of David the painter, gathered her hair in a fillet and clothed
herself in little more than a diaphanous tunic gown over a light shift
and close, flesh-coloured drawers. Her shoes became sandals: her jewels
followed the patterns of old Rome. Yet the same woman, shivering
half-clad in something that wrapped her less than a modern
bathing-dress, appeared at court in the ancient hoop-skirt, tasselled,
ribboned and garlanded, hung with heavy swags of coloured silk, and this
until George IV. at last broke the antique order by a special command.

19th century.

The 19th century soon made an end of 18th century fashions already
discredited by the revolutionary spirit. The thr