pantaloons of wool or wool's
counterfeit. Woollen shirts are worn by bicyclists, cricketers and
tennis players. In morning dress the inconvenience of the starched
shirt-front is commonly avoided. A goffered shirt-front worn with
evening dress is the mark of a foreigner in London, but some few men
venture to clothe themselves for the evening in a shirt whose front is
pleated and but slightly starched. Loose collars, formerly known as
false collars, descendants of the Puritan's "plain band," have been
attached to the shirt by studs at least for the last fifty years. Their
fashions often change, but the older type turned down at the edge is not
often seen. To women's underclothing drawers have been added in the 19th
century. Brantome, writing in the 16th, speaks of this garment as then
lately introduced since the time of Henri II., but the fashion,
apparently, did not long endure in France. In England they are noted as
in occasional use at the Restoration. After 1820 a sort of trouser with
a frilled edge was worn for a time by fashionable women in England. The
pantalette which afterwards appears in pictures of young girls was a
mere legging fastened by tapes above the knees. Many women of the better
class only adopted drawers at the end of the 'forties, and it may be
presumed that the fashion reached the humble sort at a much later date.
Towards the end of the 19th century both drawers and smock or "chemise"
were commonly exchanged for a more convenient "combination garment."

[Illustration: From Hottenroth, _Trachten der Volker_, by permission of
Gustav Weise Verlag.

FIG. 49.--German Dress (early 16th century).]

[Illustration: From Hottenroth, _Trachten der Volker_.

FIG. 50.--A French Nobleman (c. 1660).]

[Illustration: From Hottenroth, _Trachten der Volker_.

FIG. 51.--A Spanish Nobleman (latter half of 16th century). ]

_European Fashions._--Race, climate, poverty and wealth have all had
their part in the fashion of clothing. A mountaineer is not clad as a
lowlander; the Tirolese in his short breeches, the Highlanders of
Scotland and Albania in their tartan or white linen kilts go with
uncovered knees. The Russian moujik in winter has his frowsy sheepskin
coat, and the Russian prince imitates it in costly furs. While the rich
man's clothing alters with every fancy of the tailors, the poor man's
garments, fewer and cheaper, change slowly in the ages. An old
Lincolnshire peasant wearing his smock frock and lea