ee-cornered hat had
gone, the heavy coat cuff and the cravat with hanging ends. Civilians
had given up the ancient custom of going armed with a sword. The wig and
even the pigtail tied with black shalloon were abandoned by all but a
few old folk. Soldiers cut off their pigtails in 1808. But judges and
lawyers wear their wigs in court in the 20th century, state coachmen
wear them on the box, and physicians and the higher clergy wore them
even in the street long after laymen had given them up. George IV.
refused to receive a bishop of London who appeared at court without a
wig, and Sumner, archbishop of Canterbury, wore one until his death in
1862. A few powdered heads were seen as late as the 'forties. M. de Ste
Aulaire, the ambassador, made, as Lord Palmerston writes, a very deep
and general impression in London society of 1841, not because he wore
hair-powder but because he used so much of it. It is now used only by a
few lacqueys. In the early Victorian period the cropped "Brutus" head
was out of fashion, many men wearing their hair rather long and so
freely oiled that the "anti-macassar" came in to protect drawing-room
chair-backs.

[Illustration: From _Fraser's Magazine_, Dec. 1834.

FIG. 47.--Count D'Orsay. Dress of a man of Fashion in Early Victorian
Period.]

With powdered hair and the pigtail passed away the 18th century cloth
breeches. Here again some old-fashioned people made a stand against the
change, the opposition of the clergy being commemorated in the black
breeches still worn by bishops and other dignitaries of the church. But
in the regent's time pantaloons of closely fitting and elastic cloth
were worn with low shoes or Hessians, and pantaloons and Hessians did
not utterly disappear from the streets until the end of the 'fifties.
Squires and sportsmen put on buckskins of an amazing tightness and
walked the street in top-boots. But the loose Cossack trousers soon made
their appearance. The regent's influence made the blue coat with a very
high velvet collar, a high-waisted Marcella waistcoat and white duck
trousers strapped under the instep, a mode in which men even ventured to
appear at evening receptions, although, in the year before Waterloo, the
duke of Wellington was refused admittance to Almack's when thus clad.
Long skirted overcoats, fur-collared and tight in the waist, completed
this costume. Coats were blue, claret, buff and brown. "Pea-green Hayne"
was known among clubmen by a brighter co