dress with a
steeple-horn draped with lawn kerchiefs makes its appearance to shock
the moralists. Although it was probably a rare sight in this century,
the horn could easily fulfil its mission of drawing notice to all its
wearers.

[Illustration: FIG. 31.--Sons and Daughters of Edward III. (From his
tomb in Westminster Abbey.)]

Of the _cote-hardie_ it might at least be said that it was the symbol of
a knightly age in arms, the garment of a man who must have hand and
limbs free, and, save for its sleeves, it faithfully copied the
coat-armour of the armed knight. The softer days of Richard II. are
remarkable for a dress which has also its significance, men of high rank
taking to themselves gowns of such fulness that the satirists may be
justified who declare that men so clad may be hardly known from women.
The close collar of these gowns rises high as the neckcloth of a French
_incroyable_, the upper edge turned slightly over and jagged. The full
skirts sweep on the ground, which is touched by the last jags of the
vast sleeves, whose openings, wide as a woman's skirts, are dagged like
the edges of vine or oak leaves. "And but if the slevis," says the
satirist, "slide on the erthe, thei wolle be wroth as the wynde."
Sometimes this gown is slit at the sides that the gallant may the better
show his coloured hose and tips of shoes that pike out two feet from
heel to toe. When not wearing the gown such a lord would have a
high-necked coat, shorter even than the _cote-hardie_, but looser in the
skirt, the sleeves ending full and loose with dagged edges turned over
at the cuff. Hats are more commonly worn in this century, and in its
latter half take many shapes, a notable one being that of a shortened
sugar-loaf or thimble with a brim turned up, either all round, or, more
frequently, behind or before. The long shoes, as their name of
_crackowes_ or _poleynes_ implies, were a fashion which, by repute, came
from Poland, a land ruled by the grandfather of Richard's first queen.
When medieval fashions were past, they were remembered as a type of the
old time, and a certain French _conteur_ begins a tale of old days, not
with _jadis_, but with "In the time when they wore poleynes." Even
parish priests, whose preaching should "dryve out the daggis and alle
the Duche cotis," went, in this age of fine apparel, gaily clad in gowns
of scarlet and green, "shape of the newe," in "cutted clothes" with
"long pikes on her shone." More than