aul is pulled backward, and wires set in it allow the ends of a
cambric veil to float behind like the wings of a butterfly settled on a
flower.

[Illustration: FIG. 37.--A Gentleman and his Wife. (From a brass of
1508.)]

[Illustration: Drawn from a photo by Mansell.

FIG. 38.--The Earl of Surrey (late in reign of Henry VIII.).]

The 16th century.

The new England of the 16th century breaks with the past in most of its
fashions. Never again does an Englishman return to the piked shoes. High
fashion under Henry VIII. is all for broad toes, so broad that the
sumptuary laws, from banning long toes, swing about to condemn excess in
the new guise. Under Henry VII. the medieval influence is still strong
in the body-clothing. A bravely dressed man will go in long hose, cut
close to the body, and a short vest under which the shirt is seen at
waist and wrist. Over this he will wear the open gown, lined with fur,
and cut short as a jacket but having the sleeves hanging below the knee.
Such sleeves are commonly slashed open at the sides to allow the forearm
to pass through. Shorter false sleeves of this pattern had become
popular in the age of Edward IV. Graver men will wear, in place of this
short gown, a long one dropping to the broad shoe-toes, the sleeves
wide-mouthed (fig. 37). Sometimes it hangs loosely; sometimes it has the
girdle with purse and beads. Notaries and scriveners add to the girdle a
penner, or pen-case, and a stoppered ink-bottle. Wide hats are found,
crowned with huge plumes of feathers, but the characteristic headgear is
that made familiar by portraits of Henry VII., a low-crowned cap whose
upturned brim is nicked at one side. A few sober men wear coats
differing little from the short gown of forty years before. Among ladies
the butterfly head-dress and the steeple cap passed out of fashion, and
a grave headgear comes in which has been compared with a dog-kennel, a
hood-cap thrown over head and shoulders, the front being edged with a
broad band which was often enriched with needlework, the ends falling in
lappets to the breast. This band is stiffened until the face looks out
as from the open gable-end of a house. The gown is simple in form,
close-fitting to the body, the cuffs turned up with fur and the skirts
long. A girdle is worn loosely drawn below the waist, its long strap
letting the metal pendant fall nearly to the feet. Long cloaks, plainly
cut, are gathered at the neck with a pair of long co