peplos] was
sewn together on the right side from below the arm, and thus became an
[Greek: endyma]. The [Greek: peplos] was worn in a variety of colours
and often decorated with bands of ornament, both horizontal and
vertical; Homer uses the epithets [Greek: krokopeplos] and [Greek:
kyanopeplos], which show that yellow and dark blue [Greek: peploi] were
worn, and speaks of embroidered [Greek: peploi] ([Greek: poikiloi]). Such
embroideries are indicated by painting on the statues from the Acropolis
and are often shown on vase paintings.

The chiton, [Greek: chiton], was formed by sewing together at the sides
two pieces of linen, or a double piece folded together, leaving spaces
at the top for the arms and neck, and fastening the top edges together
over the shoulders and upper arm with buttons or brooches; more rarely
we find a plain sleeveless chiton. The length of the garment varied
considerably. The [Greek: chitoniskos], worn in active exercise, as by
the so-called "Atalanta" of the Vatican, or the well-known Amazon
statues (Greek Art, fig. 40), reached only to the knee; the [Greek:
chiton poderes] covered the feet. This long, trailing garment was
especially characteristic of Ionia; in the Homeric poems (Il. xiii. 685)
we read of the [Greek: Iaones helkechitones]. If worn without a girdle
it went by the name of [Greek: chiton orthostadios]. The long chiton was
regularly used by musicians (e.g. Apollo the lyre-player) and
charioteers. In ordinary life it was generally pulled up through the
girdle and formed a [Greek: kolpos] (GREEK ART, fig. 2).

Herodotus (v. 82-88) tells a story (cf. Aegina), the details of which
are to all appearance legendary, in order to account for a change in the
fashion of female dress which took place at Athens in the course of the
6th century B.C. Up to that time the "Dorian dress" had been universal,
but the Athenians now gave up the use of garments fastened with pins or
brooches, and adopted the linen chiton of the Ionians. The statement of
Herodotus is illustrated both by Attic vase-paintings and also by the
series of archaic female statues from the Acropolis of Athens, which
(with the exception of one clothed in the Doric [Greek: peplos]) wear
the Ionic chiton, together with an outer garment, sometimes laid over
both shoulders like a cloak (GREEK ART, fig. 3), but more usually
fastened on the right shoulder only, and passed diagonally across the
body so as to leave the left arm free. The