and was fastened on the breast by buttons and a
loop, or tied in a knot, whereas the Greek chlamys was oblong and
fastened on the shoulder by a brooch. On public or festal occasions the
Etruscan noble wore, besides the tebenna, a _bulla_, or necklace of
_bullae_, and a wreath, _corona Etrusca_. The bulla was a circular gold
locket containing a charm of some kind against evil.[26] On the later
sarcophagi the male figures wear not only a wreath or _corona_ proper,
but also a garland of flowers hung round the neck. The male head-dress
was the _galerus_, a hat of leather, said to have been worn by the
Lucumos in early times, or the _apex_, a pointed hat corresponding to
the _tutulus_ worn by females. The fashion of shoes worn by Roman
senators was said to have been derived from Etruria. Etruscan shoes were
prized both in Greece and in Rome.

Helbig's articles, referred to at the close of the next section,
should be consulted. J. Martha, _L'Art etrusque_, gives reproductions
of the most important monuments. See also the works on Etruscan
civilization named in the art. ETRURIA.

v. _Roman Costume._--We are told that the _toga_, the national garment
of the Romans, was originally worn both by men and by women; and though
the female dress of the Romans was in historical times essentially the
same as that of the Greeks, young girls still wore the _toga_ on festal
occasions, as we see from the reliefs of the Ara Pacis Augustae. In
early times no undergarment was worn save a loin-cloth (_subligaculum_),
which seems to be a survival of early Mediterranean fashions (see above,
sect. _Aegean Costume_), and candidates for office in historical times
appeared in the _toga_ and _subligaculum_ only. In this period, however,
the _tunica_, corresponding to the Greek chiton, was universally worn in
ordinary life, and the _toga_ gradually became a full-dress garment
which was only worn over the _tunica_ on important social occasions;
Juvenal (iii. 171) tells us that in a great part of Italy no one wore
the _toga_ except at his burial!

The _toga_ was a piece of woollen cloth in the form of a segment of a
circle,[27] the chord of the arc being about three times the height of
the wearer, and the height a little less than one-half of this length.
One end of this garment was thrown over the left shoulder and allowed to
hang down in front; the remainder was drawn round the body and disposed
in various ways. In the _cinctus Gabinus_, which