Costume._--The female dress of the Etruscans did not
differ in any important respect from that of the Greeks; it consisted of
the _chiton_ and _himation_, which was in earlier times usually worn as
a shawl, not after the fashion of the Doric [Greek: peplos]. Two
articles of costume, however, were peculiar to the Etruscans--the high
conical hat known as the _tutulus_,[25] and the shoes with turned-up
points (Latin _calcei repandi_). These have oriental analogies, and lend
support to the tradition that the Etruscans came from Asia. Both are
represented on a small bronze figure in the British Museum (fig. 19). On
a celebrated terra-cotta sarcophagus in the British Museum of much later
date (fig. 20), the female figure reclining on the lid wears a Greek
chiton of a thin white material, with short sleeves fastened on the
outside of the arm, by means of buttons and loops; a _himation_ of dark
purple thick stuff is wrapped round her hips and legs; on her feet are
sandals, consisting of a sole apparently of leather, and attached to the
foot and leg with leather straps; under the straps are thin socks which
do not cover the toes; she wears a necklace of heavy pendants; her ears
are pierced for ear-rings; her hair is partly gathered together with a
ribbon at the roots behind, and partly hangs in long tresses before and
behind; a flat diadem is bound round her head a little way back from the
brow and temples. Purple, pale green and white, richly embroidered, are
favourite colours in the dresses represented on the painted tombs.

[Illustration: Redrawn from photo (Mansell).

FIG. 20.]

The chief article of male dress was called the tebenna. We are told by
ancient writers that the _toga praetexta_, with its purple border
([Greek: periporphyros tebenna]), as worn by Roman magistrates and
priests, had been derived from the Etruscans (Pliny, N.H. ix. 63,
"praetextae apud Etruscos originem invenere"); and the famous statue of
the orator in Florence (Plate, fig. 22), an Etruscan work of the 3rd
century B.C., represents a man clothed in this garment, which will be
described below. Under the tebenna, or toga, which was necessary only
for public appearance, the Etruscans wore a short tunic similar to the
Greek chiton. For workmen and others of inferior occupation this appears
to have been the only dress. Youths, when engaged in horsemanship and
other exercises, wore a chlamys round the shoulders, which, however, was
semicircular in cut,