itional dress of
the kings and was adopted by Julius Caesar as a permanent costume. The
emperors wore it on occasions of special importance. The _trabea_, which
in historical times was worn by the consuls when opening the temple of
Janus, by the _equites_ at their yearly inspection and on some other
occasions, and by the Salii at their ritual dances, and had (according
to tradition) formed the original costume of the augurs and flamens (who
afterwards adopted the _toga praetexta_), was apparently a _toga_
smaller in size than the ordinary civil dress, decorated with scarlet
stripes (_trabes_). It was fastened with brooches (fibulae) and appears
to have been worn by the _equites_, e.g. at the funeral ceremony of
Antoninus Pius.
The tunica was precisely like the Greek chiton; that of the senator had
two broad stripes of purple (latus clavus) down the centre, that of the
knight two narrow stripes (angustus clavus). A woollen undergarment
(subucula) was often worn by men; the women's under-tunic was of linen
(indusium). When women gave up the use of the toga, they adopted the
stola, a long tunic with a border of a darker colour (instita) along the
lower edge; the neck also sometimes had a border (patagium). The tunic
with long sleeves (tunica manicata) was a later fashion. Over this the
ricinium or rica, a shawl covering the head and shoulders, was worn in
early times, and retained by certain priestesses as an official
costume;[29] but it gave place to the palla, the equivalent of the Greek
himation, and the dress of the Roman women henceforward differed in no
essential particular from that of the Greek.
A variety of cloaks were worn by men during inclement weather; in
general they resembled the Greek chlamys, but often had a hood
(_cucullus_) which could be drawn over the head. Such were the _birrus_
(so-called from its red colour), _abolla_ and _lacerna_. The _paenula_,
which was the garment most commonly worn, especially by soldiers when
engaged on peace duties, was an oblong piece of cloth with a hole in the
centre for the neck; a hood was usually attached to the back. It
survives in the ritual chasuble of the Western Church. The Greek
military chlamys appears in two forms--the _paludamentum_ of the general
(e.g. Trajan as represented on the Arch of Constantine, ROMAN ART, Plate
III., fig. 16), and the _sagum_ worn by the common soldier (e.g. by some
of the horsemen on the base of the Antonine column, ROMAN ART, Plat
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