: From _Monumenti antichi_ (Acad. Lincei).

FIG. 17.--Part of a Fresco discovered at Phaestus.]

[Illustration: From _Annual of the Brit. School at Athens_.

FIG. 18.--Terra-cotta Statuette from Petsofa.]

See _Annual of the British School at Athens_, ix. 356 sqq. (Myres);
xii. 233 sqq. (Mackenzie); Tsountas and Manatt, _The Mycenaean Age_,
ch. vii.

iii. _Greek Costume._--All articles of Greek costume belong either to
the class of [Greek: endymata], more or less close-fitting, sewn
garments, or of [Greek: periblemata], loose pieces of stuff draped round
the body in various ways and fastened with pins or brooches. For the
former class the generic name is [Greek: chiton], a word of Semitic
origin, which denotes the Eastern origin of the garment; for the latter
we find in Homer and early poetry [Greek: peplos], in later times
[Greek: himation]. The [Greek: peplos] (also called [Greek: eanos] and
[Greek: pharos] in Homer) was the sole indispensable article of dress in
early Greece, and, as it was always retained as such by the women in
Dorian states, is often called the "Doric dress" ([Greek: esthes Doris]).
It was a square piece of woollen stuff about a foot longer than the
height of the wearer, and equal in breadth to twice the span of the arms
measured from wrist to wrist. The upper edge was folded over for a
distance equal to the space from neck to waist--this folded portion was
called [Greek: apoptygma] or [Greek: diplois],--and the whole garment
was then doubled and wrapped round the body below the armpits, the left
side being closed and the right open. The back and front were then
pulled up over the shoulders and fastened together with brooches like
safety-pins ([Greek: peronai]). This was the Doric costume, which left
the right side of the body exposed and provoked the censure of Euripides
(_Andr_. 598). It was usual, however, to hold the front and back of the
[Greek: peplos] together by a girdle ([Greek: zone]), passed round the
waist below the [Greek: apoptygma]; the superfluous length of the
garment was pulled up through the girdle and allowed to fall over in a
baggy fold ([Greek: kolpos]) (see GREEK ART, fig. 75). Sometimes the
[Greek: apoptygma] was made long enough to fall below the waist, and the
girdle passed outside it (cf. the figure of Artemis on the vase shown in
GREEK ART, fig. 29); this was the fashion in which the Athena Parthenos
of Pheidias was draped. The "Attic" or "Corinthian" [Greek: