ess what I felt
at first sight of the city of Rome, which, notwithstanding all the
calamities it has undergone, still maintains an august and imperial
appearance. It stands on the farther side of the Tyber, which we
crossed at the Ponte Molle, formerly called Pons Milvius, about two
miles from the gate by which we entered. This bridge was built by
Aemilius Censor, whose name it originally bore. It was the road by
which so many heroes returned with conquest to their country; by which
so many kings were led captive to Rome; and by which the ambassadors of
so many kingdoms and states approached the seat of empire, to deprecate
the wrath, to sollicit the friendship, or sue for the protection of the
Roman people. It is likewise famous for the defeat and death of
Maxentius, who was here overcome by Constantine the Great. The space
between the bridge and Porta del Popolo, on the right-hand, which is
now taken up with gardens and villas, was part of the antient Campus
Martius, where the comitiae were held; and where the Roman people
inured themselves to all manner of exercises: it was adorned with
porticos, temples, theatres, baths, circi, basilicae, obelisks,
columns, statues, and groves. Authors differ in their opinions about
the extent of it; but as they all agree that it contained the Pantheon,
the Circus Agonis, now the Piazza Navona, the Bustum and Mausoleum
Augusti, great part of the modern city must be built upon the ancient
Campus Martius. The highway that leads from the bridge to the city, is
part of the Via Flaminia, which extended as far as Rimini; and is well
paved, like a modern street. Nothing of the antient bridge remains but
the piles; nor is there any thing in the structure of this, or of the
other five Roman bridges over the Tyber, that deserves attention. I
have not seen any bridge in France or Italy, comparable to that of
Westminster either in beauty, magnificence, or solidity; and when the
bridge at Black-Friars is finished, it will be such a monument of
architecture as all the world cannot parallel. As for the Tyber, it is,
in comparison with the Thames, no more than an inconsiderable stream,
foul, deep, and rapid. It is navigable by small boats, barks, and
lighters; and, for the conveniency of loading and unloading them, there
is a handsome quay by the new custom-house, at the Porto di Ripetta,
provided with stairs of each side, and adorned with an elegant
fountain, that yields abundance of excellent wate