n o'erflow,
The Caelian hill the dusty course will show.
The Porta del Popolo (formerly, Flaminia,) by which we entered Rome, is
an elegant piece of architecture, adorned with marble columns and
statues, executed after the design of Buonaroti. Within-side you find
yourself in a noble piazza, from whence three of the principal streets
of Rome are detached. It is adorned with the famous Aegyptian obelisk,
brought hither from the Circus Maximus, and set up by the architect
Dominico Fontana in the pontificate of Sixtus V. Here is likewise a
beautiful fountain designed by the same artist; and at the beginning of
the two principal streets, are two very elegant churches fronting each
other. Such an august entrance cannot fail to impress a stranger with a
sublime idea of this venerable city.
Having given our names at the gate, we repaired to the dogana, or
custom-house, where our trunks and carriage were searched; and here we
were surrounded by a number of servitori de piazza, offering their
services with the most disagreeable importunity. Though I told them
several times I had no occasion for any, three of them took possession
of the coach, one mounting before and two of them behind; and thus we
proceeded to the Piazza d'Espagna, where the person lived to whose
house I was directed. Strangers that come to Rome seldom put up at
public inns, but go directly to lodging houses, of which there is great
plenty in this quarter. The Piazza d'Espagna is open, airy, and
pleasantly situated in a high part of the city immediately under the
Colla Pinciana, and adorned with two fine fountains. Here most of the
English reside: the apartments are generally commodious and well
furnished; and the lodgers are well supplied with provisions and all
necessaries of life. But, if I studied oeconomy, I would choose another
part of the town than the Piazza d'Espagna, which is, besides, at a
great distance from the antiquities. For a decent first floor and two
bed-chambers on the second, I payed no more than a scudo (five
shillings) per day. Our table was plentifully furnished by the landlord
for two and thirty pauls, being equal to sixteen shillings. I hired a
town-coach at the rate of fourteen pauls, or seven shillings a day; and
a servitore di piazza for three pauls, or eighteen-pence. The coachman
has also an allowance of two pauls a day. The provisions at Rome are
reasonable and good, the vitella mongana, however, which is the most
delicate v
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