eal I ever tasted, is very dear, being sold for two pauls, or
a shilling, the pound. Here are the rich wines of Montepulciano,
Montefiascone, and Monte di Dragone; but what we commonly drink at
meals is that of Orvieto, a small white wine, of an agreeable flavour.
Strangers are generally advised to employ an antiquarian to instruct
them in all the curiosities of Rome; and this is a necessary expence,
when a person wants to become a connoisseur in painting, statuary, and
architecture. For my own part I had no such ambition. I longed to view
the remains of antiquity by which this metropolis is distinguished; and
to contemplate the originals of many pictures and statues, which I had
admired in prints and descriptions. I therefore chose a servant, who
was recommended to me as a sober, intelligent fellow, acquainted with
these matters: at the same time I furnished myself with maps and plans
of antient and modern Rome, together with the little manual, called,
Itinerario istruttivo per ritrovare con facilita tutte le magnificenze
di Roma e di alcune citta', e castelli suburbani. But I found still
more satisfaction in perusing the book in three volumes, intitled, Roma
antica, e moderna, which contains a description of everything
remarkable in and about the city, illustrated with a great number of
copper-plates, and many curious historical annotations. This directory
cost me a zequine; but a hundred zequines will not purchase all the
books and prints which have been published at Rome on these subjects.
Of these the most celebrated are the plates of Piranesi, who is not
only an ingenious architect and engraver, but also a learned
antiquarian; though he is apt to run riot in his conjectures; and with
regard to the arts of antient Rome, has broached some doctrines, which
he will find it very difficult to maintain. Our young gentlemen who go
to Rome will do well to be upon their guard against a set of sharpers,
(some of them of our own country,) who deal in pictures and antiques,
and very often impose upon the uninformed stranger, by selling him
trash, as the productions of the most celebrated artists. The English
are more than any other foreigners exposed to this imposition. They are
supposed to have more money to throw away; and therefore a greater
number of snares are laid for them. This opinion of their superior
wealth they take a pride in confirming, by launching out into all
manner of unnecessary expence: but, what is still more