the Tyber. Passing Utricoli, near the ruins of the ancient Ocriculum,
and the romantic town of Narni, situated on the top of a mountain, in
the neighbourhood of which is still seen standing one arch of the
stupendous bridge built by Augustus Caesar, we arrived at Terni, and
hiring a couple of chaises before dinner, went to see the famous
Cascata delle Marmore, which is at the distance of three miles. We
ascended a steep mountain by a narrow road formed for a considerable
way along the brink of a precipice, at the bottom of which brawls the
furious river Nera, after having received the Velino. This last is the
stream which, running from the Lago delle Marmore, forms the cascade by
falling over a precipice about one hundred and sixty feet high. Such a
body of water rushing down the mountain; the smoak, vapour, and thick
white mist which it raises; the double rainbow which these particles
continually exhibit while the sun shines; the deafening sound of the
cataract; the vicinity of a great number of other stupendous rocks and
precipices, with the dashing, boiling, and foaming of the two rivers
below, produce altogether an object of tremendous sublimity: yet great
part of its effect is lost, for want of a proper point of view, from
which it might be contemplated. The cascade would appear much more
astonishing, were it not in some measure eclipsed by the superior
height of the neighbouring mountains. You have not a front perspective;
but are obliged to view it obliquely on one side, standing upon the
brink of a precipice, which cannot be approached without horror. This
station might be rendered much more accessible, and altogether secure,
for the expence of four or five zequines; and a small tax might be
levied for the purpose from travellers by the aubergiste at Terni, who
lets his calasses for half a zequine a piece to those that are curious
to see this phaenomenon. Besides the two postilions whom I payed for
this excursion, at the rate of one stage in posting, there was a fellow
who posted himself behind one of the chaises, by way of going to point
out the different views of the cascade; and his demand amounted to four
or five pauls. To give you an idea of the extortion of those villainous
publicans, I must tell you that for a dinner and supper, which even
hunger could not tempt us to eat, and a night's lodging in three
truckle beds, I paid eighty pauls, amounting to forty shillings
sterling. You ask me why I submitted to s