awers, scriveners, booksellers,
cutlers, and all manner of shop-keepers. They pay about two sols a day
to the king for this indulgence; live well and look jolly; and can
afford to sell their goods and labour much cheaper than other dealers
and tradesmen. At night, however, they are obliged to lie aboard.
Notwithstanding the great face of business at Marseilles, their trade
is greatly on the decline; and their merchants are failing every day.
This decay of commerce is in a great measure owing to the English, who,
at the peace, poured in such a quantity of European merchandize into
Martinique and Guadalupe, that when the merchants of Marseilles sent
over their cargoes, they found the markets overstocked, and were
obliged to sell for a considerable loss. Besides, the French colonists
had such a stock of sugars, coffee, and other commodities lying by them
during the war, that upon the first notice of peace, they shipped them
off in great quantities for Marseilles. I am told that the produce of
the islands is at present cheaper here than where it grows; and on the
other hand the merchandize of this country sells for less money at
Martinique than in Provence.

A single person, who travels in this country, may live at a reasonable
rate in these towns, by eating at the public ordinaries: but I would
advise all families that come hither to make any stay, to take
furnished lodgings as soon as they can: for the expence of living at an
hotel is enormous. I was obliged to pay at Marseilles four livres a
head for every meal, and half that price for my servant, and was
charged six livres a day besides for the apartment, so that our daily
expence, including breakfast and a valet de place, amounted to two
loui'dores. The same imposition prevails all over the south of France,
though it is generally supposed to be the cheapest and most plentiful
part of the kingdom. Without all doubt, it must be owing to the folly
and extravagance of English travellers, who have allowed themselves to
be fleeced without wincing, until this extortion is become authorized
by custom. It is very disagreeable riding in the avenues of Marseilles,
because you are confined in a dusty high road, crouded with carriages
and beasts of burden, between two white walls, the reflection from
which, while the sun shines, is intolerable. But in this neighbourhood
there is a vast number of pleasant country-houses, called Bastides,
said to amount to twelve thousand, some of wh