made shift to reach the town of Sestri di
Levante, where we were most graciously received by the publican butcher
and his family. The house was in much better order than before; the
people were much more obliging; we passed a very tolerable night, and
had a very reasonable bill to pay in the morning. I cannot account for
this favourable change any other way, than by ascribing it to the
effects of a terrible storm, which had two days before torn up a great
number of their olive-trees by the roots, and done such damage as
terrified them into humility and submission. Next day, the water being
delightful, we arrived by one o'clock in the afternoon at Genoa. Here I
made another bargain with our patron Antonio, to carry us to Nice. He
had been hitherto remarkably obliging, and seemingly modest. He spoke
Latin fluently, and was tinctured with the sciences. I began to imagine
he was a person of a good family, who had met with misfortunes in life,
and respected him accordingly: but I afterwards found him mercenary,
mean, and rapacious. The wind being still contrary, when we departed
from Genoa, we could get no further than Finale, where we lodged in a
very dismal habitation, which was recommended to us as the best auberge
in the place. What rendered it the more uncomfortable, the night was
cold, and there was not a fire-place in the house, except in the
kitchen. The beds (if they deserved that name) were so shockingly
nasty, that we could not have used them, had not a friend of Mr. R--
supplied us with mattrasses, sheets, and coverlets; for our own sheets
were on board the felucca, which was anchored at a distance from the
shore. Our fare was equally wretched: the master of the house was a
surly assassin, and his cameriere or waiter, stark-staring mad. Our
situation was at the same time shocking and ridiculous. Mr. R--
quarrelled over night with the master, who swore in broken French to my
man, that he had a good mind to poniard that impertinent Piedmontese.
In the morning, before day, Mr. R--, coming into my chamber, gave me to
understand that he had been insulted by the landlord, who demanded six
and thirty livres for our supper and lodging. Incensed at the rascal's
presumption, I assured him I would make him take half the money, and a
good beating into the bargain. He replied, that he would have saved me
the trouble of beating him, had not the cameriere, who was a very
sensible fellow, assured him the padrone was out of his sen