ived at Massa, it began to grow
dark, and the post-master assured us that the road to Sarzana was
overflowed in such a manner as not to be passed even in the day-time,
without imminent danger. We therefore took up our lodging for the night
at this house, which was in all respects one of the worst we had yet
entered. Next day, we found the Magra as large and violent as the
Cerchio: however, we passed it without any accident, and in the
afternoon arrived at Lerici. There we were immediately besieged by a
number of patrons of feluccas, from among whom I chose a Spaniard,
partly because he looked like an honest man, and produced an ample
certificate, signed by an English gentleman; and partly, because he was
not an Italian; for, by this time, I had imbibed a strong prejudice
against the common people of that country. We embarked in the morning
before day, with a gale that made us run the lee-gunwale in the water;
but, when we pretended to turn the point of Porto Venere, we found the
wind full in our teeth, and were obliged to return to our quarters,
where we had been shamefully fleeced by the landlord, who,
nevertheless, was not such an exorbitant knave as the post-master,
whose house I would advise all travellers to avoid. Here, indeed, I had
occasion to see an instance of prudence and oeconomy, which I should
certainly imitate, if ever I had occasion to travel this way by myself.
An Englishman, who had hired a felucca from Antibes to Leghorn, was put
in here by stress of weather; but being aware of the extortion of
innkeepers, and the bad accommodation in their houses, he slept on
board on his own mattrasses; and there likewise he had all his
conveniencies for eating. He sent his servant on shore occasionally to
buy provision, and see it cooked according to his direction in some
public house; and had his meals regularly in the felucca. This evening
he came ashore to stretch his legs, and took a solitary walk on the
beach, avoiding us with great care, although he knew we were English;
his valet who was abundantly communicative, told my servant, that in
coming through France, his master had travelled three days in company
with two other English gentlemen, whom he met upon the road, and in all
that time he never spoke a word to either, yet in other respects, he
was a good man, mild, charitable, and humane. This is a character truly
British. At five o'clock in the morning we put to sea again, and though
the wind was contrary,