ses, and if
roughly handled, might commit some extravagance. Though I was
exceedingly ruffled, I could not help laughing at the mad cameriere's
palming himself upon R--y, as a sensible fellow, and transferring the
charge of madness upon his master, who seemed to be much more knave
than fool. While Mr. R-- went to mass, I desired the cameriere to bid
his master bring the bill, and to tell him that if it was not
reasonable, I would carry him before the commandant. In the mean time I
armed myself with my sword in one hand and my cane in the other. The
inn-keeper immediately entered, pale and staring, and when I demanded
his bill, he told me, with a profound reverence that he should be
satisfied with whatever I myself thought proper to give. Surprised at
this moderation, I asked if he should be content with twelve livres,
and he answered, "Contentissimo," with another prostration. Then he
made an apology for the bad accommodation of his house, and complained,
that the reproaches of the other gentleman, whom he was pleased to call
my majorduomo, had almost turned his brain. When he quitted the room,
his cameriere, laying hold of his master's last words, pointed to his
own forehead, and said, he had informed the gentleman over night that
his patron was mad. This day we were by a high wind in the afternoon,
driven for shelter into Porto Mauritio, where we found the post-house
even worse than that of Finale; and what rendered it more shocking was
a girl quite covered with the confluent smallpox, who lay in a room
through which it was necessary to pass to the other chambers, and who
smelled so strong as to perfume the whole house. We were but fifteen
miles from St. Remo, where I knew the auberge was tolerable, and
thither I resolved to travel by land. I accordingly ordered five mules
to travel post, and a very ridiculous cavalcade we formed, the women
being obliged to use common saddles; for in this country even the
ladies sit astride. The road lay along one continued precipice, and was
so difficult, that the beasts never could exceed a walking pace. In
some places we were obliged to alight. Seven hours were spent in
travelling fifteen short miles: at length we arrived at our old
lodgings in St. Remo, which we found white-washed, and in great order.
We supped pretty comfortably; slept well; and had no reason to complain
of imposition in paying the bill. This was not the case in the article
of the mules, for which I was obliged to