river Clitumnus, which takes its rise in three or four separate
rivulets issuing from a rock near the highway. On the right-hand, we
saw several towns situated on rising grounds, and among the rest, that
of Assissio, famous for the birth of St. Francis, whose body, being
here deposited, occasions a concourse of pilgrims. We met a Roman
princess going thither with a grand retinue, in consequence of a vow
she had made for the re-establishment of her health. Foligno, the
Fulginium of the antients, is a small town, not unpleasant, lying in
the midst of mulberry plantations, vineyards, and corn-fields, and
built on both sides of the little river Topino. In choosing our beds at
the inn, I perceived one chamber locked, and desired it might be
opened; upon which the cameriere declared with some reluctance,
"Besogna dire a su' eccellenza; poco fa, che una bestia e morta in
questa camera, e non e ancora lustrata," "Your Excellency must know
that a filthy Beast died lately in that Chamber, and it is not yet
purified and put in order." When I enquired what beast it was, he
replied, "Un'eretico Inglese," "An English heretic." I suppose he would
not have made so free with our country and religion, if he had not
taken us for German catholics, as we afterwards learned from Mr. R--i.
Next day, we crossed the Tyber, over a handsome bridge, and in mounting
the steep hill upon which the city of Perugia stands, our horses being
exhausted, were dragged backwards by the weight of the carriage to the
very edge of a precipice, where, happily for us, a man passing that
way, placed a large stone behind one of the wheels, which stopped their
motion, otherwise we should have been all dashed in pieces. We had
another ugly hill to ascend within the city, which was more difficult
and dangerous than the other: but the postilions, and the other beasts
made such efforts, that we mounted without the least stop, to the
summit, where we found ourselves in a large piazza, where the horses
are always changed. There being no relays at the post, we were obliged
to stay the whole day and night at Perugia, which is a considerable
city, built upon the acclivity of a hill, adorned with some elegant
fountains, and several handsome churches, containing some valuable
pictures by Guido, Raphael, and his master Pietro Perugino, who was a
native of this place. The next stage is on the banks of the lake, which
was the Thrasimene of the antients, a beautiful piece of water,