ach. The
road from hence to Florence is nothing but a succession of steep
mountains, paved and conducted in such a manner, that one would imagine
the design had been to render it impracticable by any sort of
wheel-carriage. Notwithstanding all our endeavours, I found it would be
impossible to enter Florence before the gates were shut. I flattered
and threatened the driver by turns: but the fellow, who had been
remarkably civil at first, grew sullen and impertinent. He told me I
must not think of reaching Florence: that the boat would not take the
carriage on board; and that from the other side, I must walk five miles
before I should reach the gate that was open: but he would carry me to
an excellent osteria, where I should be entertained and lodged like a
prince. I was now convinced that he had lingered on purpose to serve
this inn-keeper; and I took it for granted that what he told me of the
distance between the ferry and the gate was a lie. It was eight o'clock
when we arrived at his inn. I alighted with my wife to view the
chambers, desiring he would not put up his horses. Finding it was a
villainous house, we came forth, and, by this time, the horses were put
up. I asked the fellow how he durst presume to contradict my orders,
and commanded him to put them to the chaise. He asked in his turn if I
was mad? If I thought I and the lady had strength and courage enough to
walk five miles in the dark, through a road which we did not know, and
which was broke up by a continued rain of two days? I told him he was
an impertinent rascal, and as he still hesitated, I collared him with
one hand, and shook my cane over his head with the other. It was the
only weapon I had, either offensive or defensive; for I had left my
sword, and musquetoon in the coach. At length the fellow obeyed, though
with great reluctance, cracking many severe jokes upon us in the mean
time, and being joined in his raillery by the inn-keeper, who had all
the external marks of a ruffian. The house stood in a solitary
situation, and not a soul appeared but these two miscreants, so that
they might have murdered us without fear of detection. "You do not like
the apartments? (said one) to be sure they were not fitted up for
persons of your rank and quality!" "You will be glad of a worse
chamber, (continued the other) before you get to bed." "If you walk to
Florence tonight, you will sleep so sound, that the fleas will not
disturb you." "Take care you do not ta