the Coliseo was ruined by the barbarians who sacked the city of
Rome: in effect, they robbed it of its ornaments and valuable
materials; but it was reserved for the Goths and Vandals of modern
Rome, to dismantle the edifice, and reduce it to its present ruinous
condition. One part of it was demolished by pope Paul II. that he might
employ the stones of it in building the palace of St. Mark. It was
afterwards dilapidated for the same purposes, by the cardinals Riarius
and Farnese, which last assumed the tiara under the name of Paul III.
Notwithstanding these injuries, there is enough standing to convey a
very sublime idea of ancient magnificence.
The Circi and Naumachia, if considered as buildings and artificial
basins, are admirable; but if examined as areae intended for horse and
chariot races, and artificial seas for exhibiting naval engagements,
they seem to prove that the antient Romans were but indifferently
skilled and exercised either in horsemanship or naval armaments. The
inclosure of the emperor Caracalla's circus is still standing, and
scarce affords breathing room for an English hunter. The Circus
Maximus, by far the largest in Rome, was not so long as the Mall; and I
will venture to affirm, that St. James's Park would make a much more
ample and convenient scene for those diversions. I imagine an old Roman
would be very much surprised to see an English race on the course at
New-Market. The Circus Maximus was but three hundred yards in breadth.
A good part of this was taken up by the spina, or middle space, adorned
with temples, statues, and two great obelisks; as well as by the
euripus, or canal, made by order of Julius Caesar, to contain
crocodiles, and other aquatic animals, which were killed occasionally.
This was so large, that Heliogabalus, having filled it with excellent
wine, exhibited naval engagements in it, for the amusement of the
people. It surrounded three sides of the square, so that the whole
extent of the race did not much exceed an English mile; and when Probus
was at the expence of filling the plain of it with fir-trees to form a
wood for the chace of wild beasts, I question much if this forest was
more extensive than the plantation in St. James's Park, on the south
side of the canal: now I leave you to judge what ridicule a king of
England would incur by converting this part of the park into a chace
for any species of animals which are counted game in our country.
The Roman emperors see
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