taste
of architecture, though I am no judge of the art. The churches and
palaces of these days are crowded with pretty ornaments, which distract
the eye, and by breaking the design into a variety of little parts,
destroy the effect of the whole. Every door and window has its separate
ornaments, its moulding, frize, cornice, and tympanum; then there is
such an assemblage of useless festoons, pillars, pilasters, with their
architraves, entablatures, and I know not what, that nothing great or
uniform remains to fill the view; and we in vain look for that
simplicity of grandeur, those large masses of light and shadow, and the
inexpressible EUSUINOPTON, which characterise the edifices of the
antients. A great edifice, to have its full effect, ought to be isole,
or detached from all others, with a large space around it: but the
palaces of Rome, and indeed of all the other cities of Italy, which I
have seen, are so engaged among other mean houses, that their beauty
and magnificence are in a great measure concealed. Even those which
face open streets and piazzas are only clear in front. The other
apartments are darkened by the vicinity of ordinary houses; and their
views are confined by dirty and disagreeable objects. Within the court
there is generally a noble colonnade all round, and an open corridore
above, but the stairs are usually narrow, steep, and high, the want of
sash-windows, the dullness of their small glass lozenges, the dusty
brick floors, and the crimson hangings laced with gold, contribute to
give a gloomy air to their apartments; I might add to these causes, a
number of Pictures executed on melancholy subjects, antique mutilated
statues, busts, basso relieves, urns, and sepulchral stones, with which
their rooms are adorned. It must be owned, however, there are some
exceptions to this general rule. The villa of cardinal Alexander Albani
is light, gay, and airy; yet the rooms are too small, and too much
decorated with carving and gilding, which is a kind of gingerbread
work. The apartments of one of the princes Borghese are furnished in
the English taste; and in the palazzo di colonna connestabile, there is
a saloon, or gallery, which, for the proportions, lights, furniture,
and ornaments, is the most noble, elegant, and agreeable apartment I
ever saw.

It is diverting to hear all Italian expatiate upon the greatness of
modern Rome. He will tell you there are above three hundred palaces in
the city; that there