aved a fan, and when he saw we took no notice, sat down
again and went on with a book which he seemed to be reading. On both
sides of the channel, however, there is a very formidable display of
cannons and works of defence, which I apprehend would not be very
formidable in action. I have heard little in the way of news yet, but
I am disposed to believe that nothing can be accomplished here, and
that if anything is to be done we must go on to Yeddo. It is still
hot, but the air, which comes down from these lofty hills, is, I
think, fresher than that which passes over the boundless level in the
vicinity of Shanghae.

_August 4th_.--I have just had a visit from the Vice-Governor of
Nagasaki. One of his own suite did the interpretation. These are the
nicest people possible. None of the stiffness and bigotry of the
Chinese. I gave them luncheon, and it was wonderful how nicely they
managed with knives and forks and all other strange implements. The
Admiral arrived this forenoon. He now finds that his instructions
direct him to send the 'Emperor' yacht (which is to be a present) to
Yeddo. I shall take advantage of this and go to Yeddo myself at once.
I may do something, or find out what I can do.

_August 5th.--Four P.M._--The heat yesterday, and for the two nights
at Nagasaki, was very great. It must be a charming place when the
temperature is low enough to admit of walks into the country. As it is
we have just passed into the sea, through what Captain Osborn calls a
succession of Mount Edgecumbes. I went ashore yesterday and this
morning, chiefly to make purchases. Things here are really beautiful
and cheap. The town is wonderfully clean after China. Not a beggar to
be seen. The people clean too; for one of the commonest sights is to
see a lady in the front of her house, or in the front-room, wide open
to the street, sitting in a tub washing herself. I never saw a place
where the cleanliness of the fair sex was established on such
unimpeachable ocular evidence.

[Sidenote: Gales.]

_August 6th.--Four P.M._--At anchor off the southernmost point of
Japan. It has been blowing hard all day, and our captain proposed,
that instead of rounding this point and facing the sea and wind,
against which we should not be able to make any way, we should creep
in under it and anchor. We intend to rem