ation
(so we are assured) in the hands of the Rebels. As we neared a pagoda,
surrounded by a crenelated wall, we were fired upon two or three
times. We thought it necessary to resent this affront by peppering the
place for about ten minutes. We then moved slowly past the town,
unassaulted till we reached the farther corner, when the idiots had
the temerity to fire again. This brought us a second time into action.
It is a sorry business this fighting with the people who are so little
a match; but I do not suppose we did them much harm, and it was, I
presume, necessary to teach them that they had better leave us alone.
Osborn, who was aloft, saw from that point a curious scene. The
Imperialists (probably taking advantage of our vicinity) were
advancing on the town from the land side in skirmishing order, waving
their flags and gambolling as usual. The Pagoda Rebels ran out of it
as soon as we began to fire, and found themselves tumbling into the
arms of the Imperialists. We passed this morning a narrow rocky
passage, otherwise the navigation has been easy.

[Sidenote: A pilot.]

_Six P.M._--Anchored off Tunglow, a walled town, nicely situated on
the river. The sun is sinking to his repose through a mist, red and
round, like a great ball of fire. The pilot is the most vivacious
Chinaman I have seen,--inquiring about everything, proposing to go to
England, like a Japanese. It was from the naval commander at Kiewhein
that we got him. Lay was present when the commodore sent for him. He
fell on his knees. The chief informed him that he must go up the river
with us, and pilot us. 'That is a public service,' says the man, 'and
if your Excellency desires it I must go; but I would humbly submit
that I have a mother and sister who must be provided for in my
absence.' 'Certainly,' said the chief. 'Then,' answered our man, 'I am
ready;' and without further a-do he got into the boat with Lay and
came off to us.

_November 27th.--Eight A.M._--We started well, but there is such a fog
that we are obliged to stop till it clears. Our pilot went ashore last
night at Tunglow, and has returned with the front part of his head
cleanly shaved. I asked him what the people had thought of our
appearance. He answered that they were greatly afraid lest we should
fire upon them, and their hearts at first went pi