me up to it and turned to the right, with the mountains on our left
and the town of Wooseuh on our right, while the setting sun, glowing
as ever, was throwing his parting rays over one of the most beautiful
scenes I ever witnessed. The whole population crowded to the river
bank to see this wonderful apparition of the barbarian fire-ships. The
hills rising from the water had a kind of Loch Katrine look. We have
made some thirty-five miles to-day, but have still, I fear, about 100
to go.

_December 2d.--Eleven A.M._--A very prosperous forenoon. Mountains
soon rose to the right, similar to those on the left. We cut our way
through deep calm water, amid these hills of grey rock and fir woods,
for some three hours and might really have imagined ourselves in the
finest loch scenery of the Highlands. Numbers of little boats dotted
the river, and moved off respectfully to the right and left as we
approached. At about ten we passed out of the mountain range, and soon
after neared Chechow, from which the population seemed to be moving,
as we inferred from the numbers of small-footed women hobbling along
the bank with their household effects. We were boarded by a mandarin-
boat, the officer of which informed me that he had been sent by the
Governor-General to pay his respects. He said that the Rebels were at
no great distance, and the people were flying for fear of their
attacking the town. He added, however, that they (the Imperialists)
had a large force of cavalry in the neighbourhood, and that they would
check the exodus of the inhabitants. Between Imperialists and Rebels,
the people must have a nice time of it. His best piece of news was
that we are only about fifty miles from Hankow. I trust that it may be
so, for, despite my love of adventure, I shall be glad when we are
able to turn back and proceed homewards.

[Sidenote: Popular view of the religion of the Rebels.]

The reason which the pilot assigns for the destruction of the temples
by the Rebels is the following: 'At present,' says he, 'the rich have
a great advantage over the poor. They can afford to spend a great deal
more in joss-sticks and other offerings, so that, of course, the gods
show them a very undue allowance of favour. The Rebels, who do not
approve of these invidious distinctions, get rid of them by destroying
the temples