altogether.' This is evidently a popular version of the
religious character of the Rebel movement. A Buddhist priest, whom I
saw at Kew-kiang, said that the Rebels had destroyed some forty
temples there. 'They do not worship in temples,' he said, 'but they
have a worship of their own.' The room in which Mr. Wade saw the Rebel
chief at Woo-how was said to be their place of worship. It had no
altar, nor anything to distinguish it as such.

_December 4th.--Six P.M._--Anchored again for the night, not half a
mile farther than yesterday. An island in process of formation,
covered at high water, separates the two anchorages. We had to go
back, &c., and ended the day's work by getting through a very tight
place in a most masterly manner; leadsmen sounding at the bow and
stern, as well as at the two paddles, and the 'Lee' and 'Cruiser'
stationed as pivots at the edges of the shoal. We had to perform a
sort of letter S round them, and we passed by the latter so near, that
we might have shaken hands with the crew. I should be amused with
these triumphs, were it not for the reflection that we have to repeat
them all in returning, with a favouring current, which will make our
task more difficult.

[Sidenote: Hankow.]

_December 6th.--Three P.M._--At Hankow; four weeks, almost to a
minute, since we left Shanghae. We have brought this ship to a point
about 600 miles from the sea,--a feat, I should think, unprecedented
for a vessel of this size. We have reached the heart of the commerce
of China. At first sight, I am disappointed in the magnitude of the
place. I am anchored off the mouth of the river Han, which separates
Hankow and Han-yang on the left bank of the Yangtze. On its right bank
is Ouchang Foo. I do not see room for the eight millions of people, at
which rumour puts the population of these three towns. The scene is
very animated. We are surrounded by hundreds of boats, and the banks
are a sea of heads. My gentlemen are gone ashore. I think I shall get
through the streets more conveniently to-morrow morning.

_December 7th.--Four P.M._--I have just returned from a walk through
Hankow. Like all the places we have visited on this trip, it seems to
have been almost entirely destroyed by the Rebels; but it is
recovering rapidly, and exhibits a great deal of commercial activity.
The stre