attention in his power; that when the
port should be open he would do all he could to promote commerce and
good understanding. In short, he spoke very sensibly. It is
exceedingly probable that if he had not got a little check, he might
have kept us at as great a distance as possible; but, be that as it
may, it is just another proof of how easy it is to manage the Chinese
by a little tact and firmness. We are now loading coal, flour, &c., as
fast as we can take it on board.

[Sidenote: Visit to Governor-General.]

_December 10th.--Six P.M._--This day broke fine and clear, so I sent
off to the Governor-General to tell him that if he would receive me I
would visit him at 2 P.M. We went with considerable pomp. A salute
going and returning. A guard of eighty marines and sailors, and a
party of about thirty in chairs. We passed through about a mile of the
town of Ouchang Foo, and were received by the Governor-General and his
suite, dressed in their best. The ceremony was as usual; conversation
and tea in the front room, followed by a more substantial repast in
the second. I have never, however, seen a reception in China so
sumptuous, the authorities so well got up, and the feeding so well
arranged. The Governor-General is a good-looking man, less artificial
in his manner than Chinese authorities usually are. He is a Mantchoo.
It is rather hard to make conversation when one is seated at the top
of a room surrounded by some hundred people, and when, moreover, one
has nothing to say, and that nothing has to be said through an
interpreter. However, the ceremony went off very well. After it, I got
rid of my ribbon and star, and took a stroll _incog._ through Hankow,
where we bought some tea. Ouchang seems a large town with some good
houses and streets, but sadly knocked about by the Rebels. We are
getting all our supplies, &c., on board, and hope to start to-morrow
evening.

[Sidenote: Return visit.]

_December 11th.--Six P.M._--This day the Governor-General paid me a
return visit. We received him with all honour; manned yards of all
four ships, and gave him a salute of three guns from each. It has been
a beautiful day, and the scene was a striking one when he came off in
a huge junk like a Roman trireme, towed by six boats, bedizened by any
number of triangular flags of all colours. A line o