f troops, horse and
foot, lined the beach along which he passed from the gate of the city
to the place of embarkation; quaint enough both in uniform and
armament, but still with something of a pretension to both about them.
I have seen nothing in China with so much display and style about it
as the turn-out of the Governor-General of the Two Hoo, both to-day
and yesterday. We showed him the ship, feasted him, photographed him,
and entertained him one way or another for upwards of three hours.
After he had departed, I landed on the Ouchang side, and walked
through the walled city. Some objection was made to our entering, as
we went through a side instead of the main gate, but we persevered and
carried our point. The city is a fine one, about the size of Canton,
but much in ruins. To-morrow at six, please God, we set forth on our
return. I may mention as an illustration of the state of Ouchang, that
in walking over a hill in the very centre of the walled town, we put
up two brace of pheasants!

[Sidenote: Retro-sum.]

_December 12th.--Eleven A.M._--We are on our way back to Shanghae. I
am very glad of it, because we have accomplished all the good we could
possibly expect to effect at Hankow, and I am becoming very tired of
the length of time which our expedition has lasted. It is a feat to
have reached this point with these big ships at this season of the
year, and I think the effect of our visit will be considerable. The
people evidently have no objection to us, and the resistance opposed
by the authorities can always be overcome by tact and firmness.

_December 13th.--Nine A.M._--At about eight we heaved anchor, having
carefully buoyed this very awkward passage. The current ran about four
miles an hour, and at some points where the leadsmen were calling out
sixteen and seventeen feet, the channel was not much greater than the
width of the ship, and we draw about fifteen and a half feet of water,
so it was a nervous matter to get through. To make the vessel answer
the helm it was necessary to go faster than the current, and difficult
to do this without proceeding at such a rapid rate as would, if we had
chanced to take the ground, have stuck us upon it immovably. We
skirted our several buoys in a most masterly manner, and are now
anchored till they have been picked up.... _Six P.M._--'W