ome hills, where they
were waving flags gallantly, and the Imperialists were below them in a
plain. We saw only two or three cannon shots fired while we passed. As
things are carried on, one does not see why this war should not last
for ever. My friends, the Commissioners, seem to have acted in good
faith towards me, for the Chinese naval authorities all inform me that
they had been forewarned of our coming, and ordered to treat us with
every courtesy.

[Sidenote: The Imperial fleet.]

_November 25th.--Ten A.M._--We have just passed a bit of scenery on
our left, which reminds me of Ardgowan,--a range of lofty hills in the
background, broken up by deep valleys and hillocks covered with trees;
dark-green fir, and hard wood tinted with Canadian autumn colours,
running up towards it from the river. With two or three thousand
acres--what a magnificent situation for a park! There are so many
islets in this river that it is not easy to speak of its breadth, but
its channel still continues deep, and, with occasional exceptions,
navigable without difficulty. _Six P.M._--A very pretty spectacle
closed this day. The sun was dropping into the western waters before
us as we approached a place called Tsong-yang, on the left bank. We
knew it was the station of an Imperial fleet, and as we neared it we
found about thirty or forty warjunks, crowded with men and dressed in
their gaudiest colours. Flags of every variety and shape. On one junk
we counted twenty-one. You cannot imagine a prettier sight. We
anchored, supposing that the authorities might come off to us. As yet,
however, they have shown no disposition to do so. I presume, however,
that the display is a compliment. Figure to yourself the gala I have
described at the mouth of a broad stream running at right angles to
the river Yangtze, and up which the town lies, about two miles off--
the river, plains, town and all, surrounded by an amphitheatre of
lofty hills--and you will have an idea of the scene in the midst of
which we are anchored, and from which, the golden tints of sunset are
now gradually fading away.

[Sidenote: Under fire again.]

_November 26th.--Noon._--We have just had another sample of this very
unedifying Chinese warfare. About an tour ago we came off the city of
Nganching, the capital of the province of Aganhoci--the last st