mark), and visited the gardens, which were the object of our
expedition. They had the appearance of nursery gardens, with rows of
pots containing dwarf-trees and all manner of quaint products; all
this, moreover, in a prettily _accidente_ country, abounding in forest
trees and luxuriant undergrowth. We got back at about 7 P.M., having
met with no mishap.

[Sidenote: Peace and plenty.]
[Sidenote: Good temper.]

On the whole, I consider it the most interesting expedition I ever
made. The total absence of anything like want among the people; their
joyous, though polite and respectful demeanour; the combination of
that sort of neatness and finish which we attain in England By the
expenditure of great wealth, with tropical luxuriance, made me feel
that at last I had found something which entirely surpassed all the
expectations I had formed. And I am bound to say, that the social and
moral condition of Japan has astonished me quite as much as its
material beauty. Every man, from the Emperor (who never leaves his
palace) to the humblest labourer, lives under a rigid rule, prescribed
by law and custom combined; and the Government, through its numerous
agents, among whom are hosts of spies, or more properly inspectors
(for there is no secresy or concealment about this proceeding),
exercises a close surveillance over the acts of each individual; but,
in so far as one can judge, this system is not felt to be burdensome
by any. All seem to think it the most natural thing in the world that
they should move in the orbit in which they are placed. The agents of
authority wear their two swords; but, as they never use them except
for the purpose of ripping themselves up, the privilege does not seem
to be felt to be invidious. My interpreter, a Dutchman, lent to me by
the United States Consul-General, has been two years in the country,
and he assures me that he never saw a Japanese in a passion, and never
saw a parent beat a child. An inexhaustible fund of good temper seems
to prevail in the community. Whenever in our discussions on business
we get on rough ground, I always find that a joke brings us at once
upon the level again. Yesterday, at a formal audience with the Foreign
Ministers (to settle about the handing over of the yacht), they began
to propose that, in addition to the Commissioners, I should a