f our visit was a temple,
far the finest I have seen either in China or Japan. We had some
luncheon in a tea-house, and got back at about 7 P.M. On the 25th, we
went to another temple, through the most crowded part of the city
(where we were stoned before). We were followed by large multitudes,
but nothing disagreeable took place. At the temple we found a scene
somewhat resembling Greenwich Fair. Immense numbers of people amusing
themselves in all sorts of ways. Stalls covered with toys and other
wares; kiosques for tea; show places, &c. &c. Life seems an affair of
enjoyment in Japan. We made some purchases, and got home by about 5
P.M., in order to receive a party. I had invited the Imperial
Commissioners to dine with me, and requested that they would send a
juggler to perform before dinner. They tried to fight shy after having
accepted, I suppose because they considered it _infra dig._ to attend
at the performance of the juggler; but they came at last, and enjoyed
the dinner part of the affair thoroughly. The juggler was good, but
one particular feat was beyond praise. He twisted a bit of paper into
the shape of a butterfly, and kept it hovering and fluttering,
lighting here or there, on a fan which he held in his other hand, on a
bunch of flowers, &c.,--all by the action on the air, produced by a
fan which he held in the right hand. At one time he started two
butterflies, and kept them both on the wing. It was the most graceful
trick I ever saw, and entirely an affair of skill, not trick. The
juggler was succeeded by the dinner, which I wound up by giving sundry
toasts, with all the honours, to the great amusement of my
Commissioners. Thursday morning was occupied in paying bills, which
was a most difficult matter, as the Government will not allow the
people to take money in the shops, and the complication of accounts
was very great. The accuracy of the Japanese in these matters is,
however, very great.

[Sidenote: Signing the Treaty]

At 1 P.M. the Commissioners came to sign the Treaty. We have agreed to
make the Dutch copy the _original,_ as it is the language both parties
understand. The Dutch copy, written by their man Moriama, was so
beautifully written, that I have kept it to send to England. After the
signature, I lunched on a dinner sent me by the Emperor; not so bad,
af