ned such
a scene of desolation. I do not think there is a house that is not a
ruin. I believe the population used to be about 300,000, but now I
suppose it cannot exceed a few hundreds. The people are really, I
believe, glad to see us. They hope we may give them free trade and
protection from the Rebels. A commodore and post-captain in the
Chinese navy came off to us this afternoon. They were very civil,
offering to do anything for us they could. They tell us we can go in
this ship to Hankow and the Poyang Lake. We have found another rock
beside us, and only think that this should not have been known by our
Navy!

[Sidenote: Afloat again.]

_November 18th.--Eight P.M._--At about 6 P.M. I was crossing on a
plank over a gully, on my return from an expedition to Golden Island,
when three rounds of cheers from the 'Furious,' about a mile off,
struck my ear. Three rounds of cheers, followed by as many from the
other ships. She was off the rock! Some 250 tons were taken out, and
when the tide rose she came off--nothing the worse! and our time has
not been quite lost, for this is an interesting place, if only because
of the insight which it gives into the proceedings of the Rebels.
Golden Island is about five miles from here. It was a famous Buddhist
sanctuary, and contained their most valuable library. Its temples are
now a ruin.

_November 20th.--Noon._--Yesterday I took a long walk, not marked by
any noteworthy incidents. We went into some of the cottages of the
small farmers. In one we found some men smoking opium. They said that
they smoked about 80 cash (fourpence) worth a day: that their wages
when they worked for hire were 120 cash (sixpence). The opium was
foreign (Indian): the native was not good. I asked how they could
provide for their wives and families if they spent so much on opium.
They said they had land, generally from two to three acres apiece.
They paid about a tenth of the produce as a tax. They were very good-
humoured, and delighted to talk to Wade and Lay. They appear to
welcome us more here than in other places I have visited in China.

[Sidenote: Fired on from Nankin.]

_Eight P.M._--We have been under fire. The orders given on our
approach to Nankin were, that the 'Lee' should go in advance; that if
fired on, she should hoist a flag of truce; if the flag of